封面图说明|
德勒斯登交通博物馆以旅行为主题,
从出发、抵达、体验到回家,
梳理人类旅行方式的变化,
也重新追问我们为什么旅行,
以及旅行究竟留下了什么。
图片说明|除特别注明外,本文照片均由作者摄于 2026 年 09 月 25日德勒斯登交通博物馆;历史图纸、档案及其他资料之版权归原权利人所有。
引文|为什么人一定要离开原来的地方?
有些知识,
必须出发与体验后,
才会生成。
📅 时间:2026年09月25日(五)
📍 行程|德勒斯登 · 交通博物馆
Startseite – Verkehrsmuseum Dresden

图:德勒斯登交通博物馆门口
九月底来到德勒斯登,
我走进交通博物馆,
原本只是继续自己的交通田野,
却在一场关于旅行的特展前,
停了下来。
展览的名字是「Reif für die Insel」,
副标题问得非常直接,
Warum wir reisen,
我们为什么旅行?
这个问题看起来很简单,
展览却没有从度假开始,
而是把时间不断往前推,
推回旅游尚未成为旅游的年代。
那时候的人离开家乡,
往往不是为了休息,
更不是为了寻找远方,
而是因为有事情必须完成。
有人为了贸易而走,
有人为了战争而走,
有人为了信仰而走,
也有人为了研究,
走进陌生的地方。
继续沿着展览往前,
旅行的意义也慢慢改变,
风景成为观看的对象,
交通让远方越来越近,
休假让更多人终于能够出发。
可是走到这里,
我开始在意另一个问题,
人为什么一定要离开原来的地方?
如果只是获得资讯,
我们今天几乎不必远行,
地图、影像与文字,
早已可以把远方送到眼前。
可我自己的田野经验却告诉我,
知道一个地方,
和真正走进一个地方,
从来不是同一件事。
身体改变了位置,
眼前的关系也跟着改变,
原本没有注意的问题,
常常就在行走与体验之间,
突然出现。
于是这场关于旅行的展览,
也慢慢变成另一个问题。
如果有些认识,
只有身体真正抵达以后,
才有机会发生,
那么旅行是否也可以成为,
一种生成知识的方法?
一、在「旅游」以前,人已经走了很远
人在成为「游客」以前,
早已通过移动,认识世界。
1|最初的远行,都有必须完成的事
展览把旅行的历史,
推回「旅游」出现以前。
那时离开熟悉的地方,
往往有明确的目的。
商人为了交换货物,
沿着道路与海路移动。
商品抵达了,
知识与消息也跟着流动。

图:贸易展柜(Handel),布匹铅封 Tuchplombe
战争与征服,
同样让大量的人移动。
军队越过边界,
道路与城市随之重新连接。
朝圣者为了信仰出发,
前往遥远的圣地。
沿途需要道路与住宿,
移动逐渐形成固定路线。
1675年的罗马禧年,
Santa Maria dell’Anima 朝圣者之家,
仅仅一处接待设施,
就安置了约一万名来自德意志的朝圣者。


图:1675年罗马朝圣,Santa Maria dell’Anima 展牌
研究者也在移动,
只是他们带回来的东西不同。
1863年,德国博物学家 Amalie Dietrich,
为了汉堡商人远赴澳大利亚,
在那里停留了十年。
她把动植物标本不断送回汉堡,
身体抵达了远方,
观察与采集也随之发生。

图:研究(Forschung)/Amalie Dietrich 与彩虹蜂虎标本
这时的移动都有目的。
货物、领土、信仰与研究,
都能回答一个问题:
人为什么必须出发。
2|当「走出去」本身开始具有价值
但展览继续往前,
答案开始发生变化。
1611年,英国人 Thomas Coryate,
出版了自己的欧洲旅行记录。
他用五个月,从法国、意大利与瑞士,
一路走到尼德兰。
他的书拥有大量读者,
也带来了模仿者。
英国上层社会逐渐流行起,
后来被称为 Grand Tour 的旅行。


图:1611 Thomas Coryate,Grand Tour 展板
旅行当然仍然有目的,
年轻人学习语言与艺术,
认识欧洲社会与古典文明。
但这里已经出现变化:
人不再只为了完成任务移动,
离开熟悉环境这件事本身,
开始具有教育与成长的意义。
远方也逐渐被重新观看。
1761年,卢梭的小说《新爱洛伊丝》出版,
书中的爱情与自然风景,
吸引大量欧洲读者。
瑞士,成为令人向往的地方。


图:Rousseau《新爱洛伊丝》与瑞士旅游展牌
同一时期的阿尔卑斯书写,
也不断塑造一种想象:
山不再只是难以跨越的障碍,
山景本身开始值得观看。
这是一种很微妙的变化。
以前因为目的而经过风景,
后来却可能因为风景,
决定踏上一段旅程。
为了目的而走,
风景只是路过;
为了风景而走,
移动本身就成了目的。
3|站在欧洲旅行史里,我却想到一个「游」字
看到这里的时候,
我想到另一套语言。
如果把贸易、战争、朝圣、研究,
一个个放在展览的分类里,
中国历史上的许多移动,
似乎都可以找到对应的位置。
可是还有一个字,
没有那么容易放进去。
游。
「游」不是现代意义的旅游,
却也不只是空间移动,
它可以是漫游与壮游,
可以是访友与求仕,
也可以进入山水之间。
李白年轻时离开蜀地,
长期漫游各地,
山水、交游与求仕,
共同进入他的旅程,
最后也进入他的诗。
他的「游」,
并不是没有目的,
却也很难缩减成,
从一个地点前往另一个地点。
苏轼的移动又不同,
他的许多旅程,
来自仕宦与贬谪。
不是自由选择的远游,
甚至带着政治与人生的挫折。
可是到了新的地方,
他观看山水与地方生活,
认识食物与风土,
又把这些经验,
转化成文字与记忆。
于是被迫发生的移动,
也可能在经历以后,
产生原来没有的认识。
而我最先想到的,
其实还是徐霞客。
他与 Thomas Coryate,
几乎生活在同一个时代,
却从另一种文化传统出发,
走出了完全不同的路径。
徐霞客长期进入山川,
观察地貌与水系,
记录路线与地方见闻,
再把身体经历过的世界,
一点一点写下来。
他的移动有求知,
也有山水之游,
有观察与记录,
却很难简单归入,
今天所谓的「旅游」。

4|什么时候,移动本身也成为一种经验?
这里真正吸引我的,
并不是要证明,
谁比谁更早开始旅行。
而是两个不同传统,
都让我看到同一件事:
人不一定先拥有知识,
才决定走向远方,
有些知识恰恰因为走出去,
才开始生成。
回头再看这场展览,
贸易、战争、朝圣与研究,
讲的是人为何必须移动。
Grand Tour 与旅行文学,
却开始提出另一种可能,
移动不只是抵达目的地,
过程本身也能够改变人。
中国的「游」,
又让这个问题变得更复杂。
壮游、宦游与羁旅,
山水之游与长期游历,
并不存在一道清楚的边界,
把「目的」与「体验」完全分开。
也许真正值得追问的,
并不是人类什么时候,
第一次开始「旅游」。
而是什么时候,
人开始意识到,
离开原来的位置以后,
自己也会发生变化。
从这一刻开始,
远方不再只是目的地,
移动也不再只是手段;
身体走过的路,
开始成为经验的一部分。
二、有些东西,站在原地看不见
陌生的环境,
让习以为常的世界,
重新变得可见。
1|一盏街灯,一片烤面包
1782年,德国作家 Karl Philipp Moritz,
离开柏林的教师生活,
独自前往英国旅行。
到了伦敦以后,
让他感到惊讶的,
并不都是宏伟建筑。
他注意到伦敦夜晚,
街道被明亮的灯光照亮;
也在那里第一次吃到,
一种叫作 toast 的食物。
薄薄的面包切片,
吸满了融化的奶油,
这样普通的一顿食物,
也进入他的旅行记录。


图:1782 Karl Philipp Moritz 英国旅行展牌
今天回头来看,
街灯与烤面包,
实在算不上伟大发现。
可是正因为普通,
它们反而说明了,
旅行中很重要的一件事。
一个人在自己的生活里,
每天经过同样的街道,
吃着熟悉的食物,
许多事情不需要解释,
也不会特别被看见。
到了另一个地方以后,
原本理所当然的生活方式,
突然有了不同的参照。
陌生让差异出现,
差异又让日常,
重新变得可以观察。
原来最震撼的旅行,
往往不是看到了什么奇观,
而是终于看清了,
自己原本的生活。
2|徐霞客看到的,也不只是山水
前面提到徐霞客,
如果只把他的旅行理解成,
走过多少山川与道路,
其实仍然少了一层。
真正重要的地方,
是身体进入山川以后,
他不断观察眼前地形,
比较水流与山势,
记录路线与地方见闻。
有些判断无法远距离完成,
因为地图告诉人的,
只是已经被整理过的空间。
真正进入山谷以后,
坡度、方向与水流,
才会同时出现在身体周围。
走错一条路,
遇见一处洞穴,
看见水流改变方向,
原来的理解就可能,
需要重新调整。

所以徐霞客留下的,
并不只是「去过哪里」。
移动让观察持续发生,
观察又不断修正,
他对眼前世界的理解。
3|知道港口,与走进港口
这也是我做田野行走以后,
越来越清楚的一件事。
在地图上认识港口,
可以知道河流的位置,
码头的分布与航道,
也可以查到货物流量。
这些资料都很重要,
却无法取代一件事:
让身体真正走进去。
沿着港池慢慢走,
距离会变成脚步,
原本地图上的尺度,
开始拥有身体的长度。
登上一艘船以后,
甲板、机舱与生活空间,
不再只是平面图上的区域,
而成为必须弯腰、转身,
一步一步进入的空间。
机器的声音有多大,
舱梯到底有多陡,
人在狭窄空间如何移动,
河水离甲板究竟有多近,
这些都很难从地图知道。

图:Cap San Diego 机舱,作者拍摄于2026年9月2日汉堡田野。
地图告诉我们的,
是已经被整理过的空间;
只有身体走进去了,
坡度、距离与水流,
才会重新向你提问。
4|身体换了位置,问题也跟着改变
我也因此慢慢发现,
田野最重要的收获,
常常不是验证了,
出发以前已经知道的事情。
反而是在现场,
突然冒出一个问题。
为什么这里这样设计?
为什么人要这样移动?
为什么船停在这里?
为什么地图上很近的地方,
实际走起来这么远?
问题出现以后,
原来的资料才开始,
重新排列起来。
身体并不只是执行大脑的命令,
它在行动中,
持续接收环境的变化。
脚下的坡度改变,
身体就调整重心;
空间突然变窄,
动作也跟着改变;
方向出现偏差,
身体重新寻找位置。
身体换了位置,
环境就跟着改变;
环境一旦改变,
人与世界之间的关系,
也重新排列。
所以田野并不是,
把已知的答案,
带到现场寻找证明。
田野不是把答案带到现场,
而是让身体进入现场以后,
产生原来没有的问题。
这也解释了为什么,
有些知识无法只靠阅读,
有些理解无法只靠影像,
甚至无法在出发以前,
预先知道自己缺少什么。
因为真正改变的,
不只是眼前的景色。
身体的位置改变以后,
观看世界的位置,
也跟着改变。
延伸阅读|身体生成式智能
关于“身体如何在行动中生成感知与问题”,可参阅我的理论文章:
《身体生成式智能》|阅读导航
三、光有远方还不够,人必须真的到得了
远方一直都在那里,
真正改变历史的,
是谁终于可以出发。
1|先要知道,路该怎么走
1801年,牧师 Carl Heinrich Nicolai,
写下第一本萨克森瑞士徒步指南,
他的牧师住宅也逐渐成为,
旅行者集合与出发的地方。


图:1801 Carl Heinrich Nicolai,萨克森瑞士徒步指南展牌
今天看来很普通的旅行指南,
当时解决的却是一个基本问题,
即使远方已经令人向往,
人仍然必须知道,
应该怎样抵达那里。
哪一条路可以走,
哪里值得停下来,
在哪里休息,
都需要有人整理出来。
自然一直都在那里,
但只有当路线被认识,
陌生的空间才逐渐成为,
可以进入的旅行空间。
于是远方第一次变得,
不仅值得想象,
而且可以寻找。
2|到得了,还必须住得下来
1829年,波士顿 Tremont House 开业。
旅馆看起来不像交通工具,
却是旅行系统里,
一个非常重要的节点。


图:1829 Tremont House,Hotel 展牌
因为人离开家以后,
必须在另一个地方,
暂时建立可以生活的空间。
我知道今晚住在哪里,
知道那里能够洗漱与休息,
远方才真正变得可计划。
交通让身体离开家,
住宿让身体能够留在远方。
3|距离开始被重新计算
1827年,
蒸汽船 Concordia,
开始在莱茵河上运行。
1840年前后,
约有五十万人游览莱茵河;
到了1850年,
人数已经超过一百万。


图:1827 Concordia,莱茵河蒸汽船展牌
河流当然早就存在,
改变的是抵达的方法。
蒸汽动力让移动减少了,
对风向与体力的依赖。
航程变得更规律,
更多身体因此能够进入同一条路线。
1830年,英国开通铁路客运,
过去需要几天的路程,
开始用小时计算。


图:1830 Liverpool–Manchester 铁路展牌
真正被缩短的,
并不是地图上的距离,
而是身体为了跨越距离,
必须付出的时间与力量。
4|当一段旅程可以被买下来
到了19世纪,
新的问题又出现了。
即使道路已经知道,
交通已经运行,
旅馆也已经出现,
旅行仍然需要自己组织。
买车票、找住宿、换乘,
都必须一一安排。
Thomas Cook 改变的,
正是这一层。
1845年前后,
他开始组织团体旅行,
后来逐渐把铁路、船票,
住宿与行程结合起来。


图:Thomas Cook 展牌
这里发生的变化,
不是交通工具再次升级,
而是复杂的旅行过程,
开始被别人组织起来。
路线有人规划,
交通有人衔接,
住宿可以预订,
价格也能够提前计算。
原本必须自己完成的事情,
逐渐成为一种,
可以买下来的服务。
到这里似乎已经具备,
现代旅行需要的一切。
可是还有一个问题,
比道路、旅馆与车票,
更加难以解决。
谁有时间出发?
5|有火车票,还不等于能够旅行
很长一段时间里,
为了休闲而旅行,
仍然属于少数人的生活。
不是因为普通人,
不知道远方在哪里,
也不是因为铁路,
没有通向那些地方。
真正稀缺的东西,
还有时间与收入。
一个每天必须工作的人,
即使车站就在眼前,
也不代表他能够,
买一张票离开城市。
于是旅行史走到这里,
开始与另一段历史相遇。
那是劳动时间,
自由时间与休假制度,
不断重新划分的历史。
大约从1870年开始,
公务员首先逐渐获得,
制度化的休假安排。
工人则经过长期争取,
让带薪休假逐渐进入,
集体劳动协议之中。
到了1929年,
大多数集体劳动协议里,
已经能够看到,
关于休假的规定。
于是一个原本属于,
贵族与富裕市民的行为,
开始向更多社会阶层打开。
但是拥有休假,
仍然不等于能够旅行。
还需要足够的收入,
也需要更便宜的旅行方式。
有了火车票,
不等于能够旅行;
有了休假,
也不等于能够出发。
空间上的可达,
必须遇见时间上的自由,
远方才真正向普通人敞开。
6|自然与远方,为什么只能属于少数人?
看到这里的时候,
我也想到了自然之友协会(NaturFreunde)。
这个19世纪末诞生的运动,
同样面对一个问题,
普通劳动者拥有的自然,
为什么应该比富人更少?
远足、集体活动,
自然体验与住宿网络,
让离开城市与进入自然,
逐渐成为更多人的可能。

它和旅行社不同。
Thomas Cook 把复杂的旅程,
组织成可以买到的服务;
自然之友更关心的,
是普通人如何获得休闲与自然。
远足、集体活动与平价山屋,
让离开城市与进入自然,
逐渐成为更多人的可能。
但两条历史最终指向,
同一个更大的变化。
从 Grand Tour 到 带薪休假(Urlaub),
改变的不只是旅行方式,
还有能够站在远方的人。
到了20世纪中叶以后,
年度休假逐渐成为常态。
“所有人都可以度假”(Urlaub für alle),
终于不再只是一种愿望。
但身体能够进入哪里,
从来不只是个人选择。
道路、交通与住宿,
收入、时间与社会制度,
共同决定了一个身体,
究竟能够抵达多远。
只是当越来越多的人,
终于拥有这种可能以后,
一个新的问题,
也随之出现:
如果所有人,都开始走向远方呢?
四、当越来越多的身体可以出发
当越来越多人走向远方,
旅行改变的不只是旅行者,
也包括被抵达的地方。
1|如果所有人都可以出发
上一章走到最后,
越来越多普通人终于拥有,
离开日常生活的可能。
铁路缩短距离,
旅馆提供住宿,
旅行社组织行程,
带薪休假释放时间。
曾经属于少数人的远方,
逐渐向更多人打开。
但展览走到这里,
问题突然反了过来。
如果越来越多人,
都拥有出发的权利,
同一个地方又能够,
容纳多少人的抵达?
20世纪的大型度假区,
正是在这样的背景下出现。
海滩、山区与海岛,
开始同时接待大量游客。
旅行的大众化,
当然是一种社会进步。
但当少数人的 Grand Tour,
真正变成普通人的带薪休假( Urlaub),
另一个问题也随之出现。
一个人的旅行是体验,
数百万人的旅行,
却会成为一个系统。

图:Massentourismus/大型度假区相关展板
2|一座度假城市,需要多少水?
展览用西班牙 Benidorm,
提出一个非常具体的问题。
游客来到海边以后,
需要的不只是阳光,
还需要淋浴、洗衣、泳池,
以及每天稳定供应的饮用水。

图:Benidorm 水资源展板/悬挂水瓶装置
今天的 Benidorm,
平均每人每天用水,
大约为167公升。
西班牙饭店住客,
平均每天约使用250公升,
全球饭店住客的平均值,
甚至约为350公升。
而 Benidorm 一年,
拥有约一千六百万个住宿夜。
当这些数字相乘,
一个人的日常需求,
便成为城市必须面对的,
巨大基础设施问题。
1978年的 Benidorm,
曾经发生严重供水中断,
旅游与水资源之间的关系,
也因此变得无法忽视。
这里真正有意思的,
并不是批评游客洗澡洗得太久。
而是身体一旦抵达,
就一定会占据空间,
消耗水与能源,
制造垃圾与交通需求。
旅行从来不是,
身体轻轻经过一个地方,
它一定会占据空间、消耗资源、留下痕迹。
3|我们看他们,他们也在看我们
展览里还有一个区域,
叫作 「我们与他者」(Wir und die anderen)。
旅行者离开日常世界,
进入别人的生活空间,
在那里观看街道、食物,
建筑、服饰与生活方式。

图:我们与他者(Wir und die anderen) 展板
1833年,Talbot 在蜜月旅行时,
试着描绘科莫湖,
却对自己的绘画并不满意。
后来他发展出摄影技术,
旅行者也逐渐拥有,
另一种带走风景的方法。
摄影让旅行者,
不仅能够带走风景,
也在选择,
什么值得被看见。

图:摄影与旅行展板
我们站在远方,
选择一个角度,
按下快门。
但观看从来不是单向的。
游客在观察当地人,
当地人也在观察,
不断进入自己生活空间的游客。
于是第二章里的关系,
到了这里出现另一面:
我们进入一个地方,
地方改变我们的感知;
但我们的抵达,
也正在改变那个地方。
4|当地方开始为游客改变自己
这种改变有时候,
甚至发生在餐桌上。
阿尔卑斯山区的旅馆,
为了来自城市的周末游客,
调整自己供应的菜肴。
马略卡的饭店,
为了德国与英国游客,
准备他们更加熟悉的食物。
甚至今天看起来,
极其「意大利」的披萨,
也曾随着游客的喜爱,
从那不勒斯走向更多地方。

图:旅行中的饮食展区
旅行者原本是来寻找,
所谓「当地文化」的。
可是游客持续到来以后,
当地文化也开始回应,
游客想象中的「当地」。
究竟是游客体验了地方,
还是地方正在学习,
如何被游客体验?
今天看见 Aloha Shirt,
很多人会立刻想到,
夏威夷与热带假期。
但这种看似典型的,
「地方文化符号」,
本身就是长期文化交流,
不断混合产生的结果。
菲律宾服装的影响,
日本和服使用的布料,
日本与波利尼西亚图案,
再加上当地设计,
最后形成新的样貌。
文化并不是游客抵达以前,
就永远静止在那里。
旅游只是让这种流动,
变得更加密集。
所以,当传统为了游客需求,
不断改变自己的时候,
我们今天看到的「传统」,
究竟是谁共同创造的?
6|当当地人说:已经太多了
展览最后几处空间,
开始出现另一种声音。
垃圾、噪音、拥挤,
不断上涨的生活成本,
有限的住房与自然资源,
让旅游与当地生活,
发生越来越直接的冲突。
在 Barcelona,
喷水枪成为抗议符号。
在 Mallorca,
上涨的房租与拥挤的公共空间,
也引发当地居民抗议。
短期出租住房增加以后,
游客得到住宿空间,
居民却可能发现,
长期住房越来越难寻找。
于是旅行最初的那个问题,
又以另一种方式回来。
一个人当然可以问:
我为什么不能去?
但一个地方也可以问:
我们还能够承受多少人来?
当一个人的自由,
进入另一些人的生活空间,
双方就必须重新协商边界。

图:Was tun?,Venice、度假出租限制、Enjoy Respect Venezia 展板
6|然后,我们带着照片回家
展览最后把游客,
重新送回出发的地方。
Wieder zu Hause。
旅行结束以后,
行李箱里多了一些东西:
照片、纪念品,
以及留在记忆里的风景。
展览也提出一个,
并没有标准答案的问题:
同一个拥挤的海滩,
有人感到自由与放松,
有人只看见吵闹与无聊。
那么一次旅行,
究竟需要多「深」,
才算真正认识一个地方?
看到这里的时候,
我突然发现,
自己的答案并不完全在展板上。
我也会带照片回来,
很多时候,甚至几百张。
但照片回到电脑以后,
对我而言,旅程还没有结束。
我会重新整理照片,
放大当时没有注意的文字,
寻找照片之间的关系,
再查资料、比较与验证。
有些现场没有想到的问题,
反而是在回来以后,
才慢慢浮出来。
旅行真正留下的,
不只是照片与纪念品,
而是人与环境之间,
一次真实发生过的关系。
尾声|回家以后,旅程才开始成为知识
身体先抵达世界,
文字后来,
才追上身体。
游客带着照片、纪念品与记忆,
重新回到日常生活。
旅行后,我也带着照片回来。
但真正整理照片时,
我常常才发现,
现场没有注意到的东西:
一个标牌,
一艘船,
一个年份,
一句当时没有理解的话。
于是重新查资料,
把不同地方的观察,
放在一起比较。
一座博物馆,连接另一座城市。
一条河流,连接另一条河流。
一次没有答案的问题,
又把我带向,下一次田野。
所以我的旅行,
并没有在火车抵达斯图加特时结束。
身体走过的路,
开始进入另一段旅程。
田野让身体生成经验,
书写让经验生成知识。
到了这里,
我才真正理解,
「身体生成式智能」与田野之间,
还有这样一层关系:
身体先进入世界,
感知在行动中生成问题,
问题在回忆与书写中,
重新长成知识。
所以我一次又一次出发,
也一次又一次,
把旅程写下来。
楚人对话后记|考烈王、黄歇与令尹夫人的观后感
令尹夫人又出门了
人为什么一定要离开原来的地方?
考烈王看完德勒斯登的照片,
问我:
“寡人还是不明白,
人为什么一定要去远方?”
黄歇替我回答:
“楚人其实也一直在走。
沿江而下,溯水而上,
离开郢都,走向更远的地方。”
考烈王问:
“为了什么?”
黄歇说:
“有时候是出使,
有时候是流放。
有时候却是因为,
原来的地方已经容不下,
心里想问的问题。”
考烈王看着他:
“所以才有远游?”
黄歇点点头:
“也许。
远方从来不只是另一个地方。
人离开熟悉的位置,
看见天地更大,
也重新看见自己,
究竟站在哪里。”
他接着笑说:
“楚人走出去,
常常是为了带东西回来。
夫人走出去,
却连自己会带回什么,
都不知道。”
两千多年以后,
我仍然一次次带着这两个人出发。
不是因为远方一定藏着答案。
而是有些问题,
只有离开原来的位置,
才会真正出现。
考烈王沉默了一会儿:
“所以路走得再远,
最后求的还是一个答案?”
黄歇摇头:
“未必。
有些路的意义,
不是终于找到答案。
而是走过以后,
人已经能够提出,
从前问不出来的问题。”
两千多年前,
楚人把这样的追寻,
写进江河、山川与天地之间。
两千多年以后,
我们坐上火车与飞机,
带着相机走向远方。
工具改变了,
道路改变了,
能够出发的人也改变了。
可是文明留下的追问,
似乎一直没有改变。
人为什么要离开,
自己原来站立的地方?
也许因为文明的生成,
从来不只是守住已有的世界。
它也需要有人出发,
有人越过熟悉的边界,
有人把身体放进未知之中。
然后看见新的关系,
带回新的问题,
重新理解自己的世界。
两千多年前,
屈原写下:
路曼曼其修远兮,
吾将上下而求索。
两千多年以后,
路已经完全不同。
但文明之所以向前,
或许正因为总有人,
愿意离开原来的位置,
继续求索。
屈原的「求索」,
用脚走过山川;
我的「求索」,
用身体走进港口、船舱与博物馆。
路换了,
方式换了,
但那种「必须走出去,
才知道世界长什么样」的冲动,
从来没有换。
Appendix|English Narrative Overview
Some Knowledge Can Only Be Generated Through Travel and Experience | “Why We Travel” at the Dresden Transport Museum
Field experience: 25 September 2026
Location: Dresden · Dresden Transport Museum
Why Do We Have to Leave at All?
At the end of September, I entered the Dresden Transport Museum intending simply to continue my fieldwork on transport. Instead, I stopped at a temporary exhibition with a deceptively simple subtitle: Warum wir reisen — Why do we travel?
The exhibition does not begin with holidays. It goes further back, to a time when people usually left home because something had to be done. Merchants travelled to exchange goods. Armies crossed territories. Pilgrims followed routes towards sacred places. Researchers entered unfamiliar environments to observe, collect and bring knowledge home.
As I moved through the exhibition, however, the meaning of travel gradually changed. Landscapes became something worth seeing in their own right. Transport made distant places increasingly accessible. Hotels made it possible to remain away from home. Organised travel reduced uncertainty. Paid holidays eventually gave ordinary workers something just as important as transport: time.
Yet somewhere along this historical journey, another question began to interest me more than the history of tourism itself: Why do we have to leave our original place at all?
Today, if the purpose of travel were simply to acquire information, we would hardly need to go anywhere. Maps, photographs, videos and texts can bring distant places directly onto our screens. My own fieldwork has taught me something different.
Knowing a place and physically entering it are not the same thing. Once the body changes position, relationships that were invisible from a distance begin to change as well. Distances become footsteps. Scale becomes physical. A harbour that looked compact on a map suddenly takes an hour to cross. A ship that appeared manageable in a photograph becomes a spatial system once I climb aboard. Questions I had never thought to ask often emerge only while walking, boarding, looking, turning and comparing.
That is why the exhibition gradually became, for me, more than a history of travel. It became a question about knowledge itself:
If some forms of understanding can only arise after the body has actually arrived, can travel itself become a way of generating knowledge?
Before There Were Tourists, People Were Already Moving
Human beings travelled long before they became tourists.
Trade, warfare, pilgrimage and research all produced movement, but movement was largely a means towards another end. Goods had to reach markets. Territories had to be crossed. Sacred destinations had to be reached. Plants, animals and observations had to be collected.
The exhibition shows, for example, how pilgrimage already required routes, accommodation and forms of organisation. During the Roman Jubilee of 1675, Santa Maria dell’Anima alone accommodated around 10,000 pilgrims from German-speaking lands. In the nineteenth century, the German naturalist Amalie Dietrich travelled to Australia, where she spent ten years collecting botanical and zoological specimens that were sent back to Hamburg.
In cases like these, the question “Why travel?” had a relatively clear answer.
Then something began to change.
In 1611, the English traveller Thomas Coryate published an account of his five-month journey through continental Europe. His writing attracted readers and imitators and became part of the culture from which the Grand Tour developed. Travel still had educational purposes: young members of the European elite studied languages, art, society and classical civilisation. But leaving home was no longer merely a practical necessity. The journey itself increasingly became part of education.
Literature also taught people to look differently at landscape. Rousseau’s Julie, or the New Heloise, published in 1761, helped transform Switzerland into an imagined destination. Writing about the Alps contributed to another subtle shift: mountains were no longer merely obstacles to be crossed. The scenery itself became worth travelling for.
Previously, one might pass through a landscape because of a destination. Increasingly, the landscape could become the reason for the journey.
The destination was no longer the only purpose, and movement was no longer merely a means. The road travelled by the body was becoming part of the experience itself.
Standing inside this European history of travel, however, I found myself thinking about a Chinese word: you — 游.
It cannot simply be translated as modern tourism. In Chinese cultural history, you may refer to roaming, extended journeys, visiting friends, seeking office, travelling through landscapes or moving through the world for reasons that do not fit neatly into a modern distinction between purpose and leisure.
Li Bai left Sichuan when he was young and travelled widely. Mountains, friendships, ambitions and encounters entered his journeys and later his poetry. Su Shi’s movements were different. Many were connected to official appointments and political exile. Yet places into which he had not freely chosen to move still became landscapes he observed, local lives he encountered, foods he tasted and experiences he transformed into writing.
The figure I thought of most strongly, however, was Xu Xiake. Living at almost the same time as Thomas Coryate but within a very different cultural tradition, Xu travelled extensively through mountains and waterways. He observed terrain, compared water systems, recorded routes and local conditions, and gradually transformed what his body had encountered into written knowledge.
The point is not to decide which civilisation “invented” travel first. The more interesting question is when movement itself began to be understood as a source of experience.
European travel history and the Chinese tradition of you arrive there by different routes. Both suggest that people do not always possess knowledge first and then decide to travel. Sometimes knowledge begins because they leave.
Some Things Cannot Be Seen from Where We Stand
In 1782, the German writer Karl Philipp Moritz left his teaching life in Berlin and travelled alone to England. What surprised him in London was not always monumental. He noticed brightly illuminated streets at night. He encountered toast — thin slices of bread soaked with melted butter — and recorded even this ordinary food in his travel writing.
Streetlights and toast hardly sound like great discoveries. That is precisely why they matter.
At home, we pass through the same streets, eat familiar food and follow routines that no longer require explanation. Familiarity makes much of everyday life invisible. Enter another environment, however, and comparison begins almost automatically.
Strangeness reveals difference, and difference makes everyday life observable again. Sometimes the most powerful thing about travel is not seeing something extraordinary, but finally seeing one’s ordinary life clearly.
This is also why Xu Xiake’s journeys cannot be reduced to a list of mountains and roads. A map presents space after it has already been organised. Once the body enters a valley, however, slope, direction, distance and water appear together. A wrong path, an unexpected cave or a stream flowing in a different direction may force an earlier understanding to be reconsidered.
A map tells us about space that has already been organised. Only when the body enters it do slope, distance and water begin asking questions again.
I have repeatedly experienced the same difference in my own fieldwork. I can study a harbour on a map and learn the position of the river, the docks, the navigation channels and the flow of cargo. All of that information matters. But it cannot replace walking slowly around a harbour basin until distance becomes footsteps and map scale becomes bodily scale.
The same thing happens when I board a ship, descend into an engine room or move through a museum. I often return not with confirmation of what I already knew, but with a question I did not know existed before I arrived.
Why is this structure designed this way? Why do people move through this space in this particular manner? Why is this vessel moored here? Why does a distance that looks short on a map feel so long on foot?
This is where my fieldwork connects with a theoretical framework I have been developing through Body Force and Embodied Generative Intelligence.
The body is not simply carrying out commands issued by the brain. It continuously receives changes in the environment and adjusts through action. A slope changes and the body shifts its balance. A passage narrows and movement changes. Direction becomes uncertain and the body searches again for orientation.
When the body changes position, its environment changes with it. And when the environment changes, the relationship between person and world is rearranged.
Fieldwork, then, is not simply a method for carrying known answers into the world and looking for evidence.
Fieldwork does not take answers into the field. It allows the body to enter the field so that questions can arise which did not exist before.
This is why some knowledge cannot be obtained through reading alone, and some forms of understanding cannot be gained from images alone. We may not even know what we are missing before we leave.
Because what changes is not only the landscape before our eyes.
When the position of the body changes, the position from which we see the world changes with it.
Further reading: Body-Force · Season One · Navigation Map|How the Human Body Generates a Logic of Civilization
A Distant Place Is Not Enough. We Must Be Able to Reach It.
There is, however, another side to this story. The distant world may exist, but that does not mean everyone can reach it.
Travel first has to become materially possible.
In 1801, Carl Heinrich Nicolai published an early walking guide to Saxon Switzerland. A guidebook does something deceptively important: it turns an unknown landscape into a route that can be followed.
Accommodation solves another problem. When the Tremont House opened in Boston in 1829, it represented a new scale of hotel infrastructure. Leaving home becomes easier when a traveller can know in advance where the night will be spent. Transport allows the body to leave home; accommodation allows the body to remain somewhere else.
Transport then began to transform distance itself. In 1827, the steamship Concordia began operating on the Rhine. Around 1840, roughly half a million people were already visiting the Rhine; by 1850, the number had risen beyond one million. Railways accelerated the same transformation. Distance increasingly became something that could be calculated in timetables rather than endured as uncertainty.
Then Thomas Cook helped organise the separate pieces of travel into a service. Routes could be planned, transport connected, accommodation arranged and prices calculated in advance. The complexity of travelling was increasingly something one could buy help with.
At this point, modern tourism appears almost complete.
But one problem remains: Who has the time to leave?
For much of modern history, leisure travel remained the privilege of a minority not because ordinary people did not know where distant places were, nor because railway lines failed to reach them, but because time and income were scarce.
From around the 1870s, institutionalised holiday arrangements gradually appeared for civil servants. Workers fought much longer for paid leave. By 1929, holiday provisions could be found in most collective agreements represented in the exhibition.
Travel history therefore intersects with labour history.
A railway ticket does not mean that a person can travel. A holiday does not necessarily mean that a person can leave. Spatial accessibility must meet freedom in time before the distant world can truly open to ordinary people.
This is also where I thought of the NaturFreunde movement, founded at the end of the nineteenth century. Its history addresses a question different from that of Thomas Cook. Cook helped make complicated journeys purchasable and organised. NaturFreunde was concerned with access: why should nature, recreation and the possibility of leaving the city belong primarily to those with money?
Walking, collective activities and affordable accommodation helped make nature accessible to broader sections of society. These histories eventually converge in a larger transformation.
From the Grand Tour to Urlaub — what changed was not only the way people travelled, but who was able to stand in a distant place.
Roads, ships, railways and hotels created spatial access. Income, working time and paid leave created social access. Only when the two met could travel become a mass possibility.
And once that happened, the question changed again:
What happens when everyone begins to travel?
When More and More Bodies Can Leave
The democratisation of travel was a social achievement. Railways shortened distance. Hotels provided places to stay. Travel agencies organised journeys. Paid leave released time. Places once accessible mainly to elites increasingly opened to ordinary people.
But if millions of people gain the right and ability to travel, a destination must absorb millions of arrivals.
One person’s journey is an experience. Millions of journeys become a system.
The exhibition makes this visible through Benidorm, the Spanish resort city. Tourists arriving for sun and sea also require showers, laundry, swimming pools and reliable drinking water. Water consumption therefore reveals something that a postcard does not: every travelling body remains a material body.
The traveller does not merely look at a place. The traveller eats, drinks, sleeps, washes, moves and consumes resources there.
This reverses the perspective developed earlier in the exhibition. At first, I had been asking what happens when the environment acts upon the traveller. Now the question becomes what happens when travellers act upon the environment.
The relationship runs both ways.
Photography makes this especially visible. A camera allows travellers not only to take landscapes home, but also to decide what deserves to be seen. Frames are selected. Views become iconic. Certain images are repeated until they begin to shape expectations of a place.
But looking is never one-directional. Tourists observe local people. Local people also observe the stream of strangers continually entering their living space.
Do tourists experience a place, or does the place gradually learn how to be experienced by tourists?
Food changes. Souvenirs change. Clothing and craft traditions may be adapted for visitors. The exhibition uses examples such as the Hawaiian shirt and Zuni carvings to show that what appears “local” may itself be the result of long cultural exchange, adaptation and tourist demand.
This does not mean that tourism simply destroys authenticity. The relationship is more complicated. Tourism can create income, sustain crafts and connect cultures. It can also reshape traditions according to what visitors expect to buy, photograph or recognise.
The destination is not a passive stage on which the traveller has an experience. It responds.
And sometimes it resists.
In places affected by overtourism, residents increasingly ask where the boundary lies between a visitor’s freedom and the everyday life of those who live there. Housing, water, public space, noise and infrastructure turn tourism into a negotiation over shared space.
When one person’s freedom enters another person’s living space, both sides must renegotiate the boundary.
This does not cancel the achievement of making travel accessible to more people. It completes the question.
Travel is not only about whether I am free to leave. It is also about what my arrival asks of the place that receives me.
When the Journey Comes Home
At the end of the exhibition, the traveller returns home: Wieder zu Hause.
Photographs, souvenirs and memories come back with us. The same crowded beach may be remembered by one person as freedom and by another as noise. The exhibition therefore leaves visitors with another unresolved question: how deeply must we experience a place before we can say that we know it?
My own answer begins after I return.
I also come home with photographs — sometimes hundreds of them. But when I begin sorting them, I often discover things I did not notice in the field: a sign, a vessel, a date, a sentence I did not understand at the time.
Then the journey starts again in another form. I search. I compare. I verify. One museum connects to another city. One river connects to another river. A question that remained unanswered during one journey becomes the reason for the next.
My fieldwork therefore does not end when the train arrives back in Stuttgart.
Travel leaves behind more than photographs and souvenirs. It leaves behind a relationship that actually occurred between a person and an environment.
The body reaches the world first. Writing catches up later.
This is the second connection I now see between fieldwork and Embodied Generative Intelligence.
Fieldwork allows the body to generate experience. Writing allows experience to generate knowledge.
The body enters the world. Perception generates questions through action. Questions return through memory, comparison and research. And through writing, they gradually become knowledge.
That is why I leave again and again. And why, again and again, I write the journey down.
Across Civilizations
Why Must We Leave the Place Where We Stand?
After looking through my photographs from Dresden, King Kaolie asked me a question. “I still do not understand. Why must people go somewhere far away?”
Huang Xie answered before I could. “The people of Chu were always moving too. Down the rivers, upstream against them, away from Ying and towards places farther beyond.”
“For what?” the king asked.
“Sometimes on missions. Sometimes in exile. And sometimes because the place where one stands can no longer contain the questions one needs to ask.”
The king looked at him. “Is that why people speak of travelling far?”
“Perhaps,” Huang Xie replied. “A distant place is never merely another place. When people leave what is familiar, they see a larger world. They also begin to see more clearly where they themselves are standing.”
Then he smiled. “When people of Chu went out, they often knew what they hoped to bring back. My Lady travels without even knowing what she will return with.”
More than two thousand years later, I still take these two men with me. Not because the distant world necessarily contains an answer, but because some questions only appear after we have left the position from which we were originally looking.
King Kaolie was silent for a moment. “So however far the road goes, in the end we are still searching for an answer?”
Huang Xie shook his head. “Not necessarily. Some roads matter not because they finally give us an answer, but because after travelling them, we are able to ask a question we could not ask before.”
More than two thousand years ago, the people of Chu placed such searching among rivers, mountains and the vastness of heaven and earth. Today we board trains and aircraft and carry cameras into distant places. The tools have changed. The roads have changed. The people who are able to travel have changed.
Yet one civilizational question remains remarkably persistent: Why must human beings sometimes leave the place where they already stand?
Perhaps because civilizations do not develop only by preserving the world they already know. They also need people willing to depart, cross familiar boundaries and place their bodies inside what they do not yet understand. Only then can new relationships become visible, new questions be brought home, and the familiar world be understood again.
More than two thousand years ago, Qu Yuan wrote in the Li Sao: “The road is long and far; I shall search above and below.”
His searching crossed the landscapes of his world. Mine takes my body into harbours, ships and museums. The roads have changed. The ways of travelling have changed. But the impulse behind them has not:
Sometimes we have to go out into the world before we can know what the world looks like — and before we can discover what we still do not know.
📜 参考资料:
- 徐霞客游记(明代地理学家徐霞客创作的散文游记)_百度百科
- 徐霞客游记数字博物馆 | 原文对照 · 行程长卷 · 岩洞 · 人物 · 书影
- 300多年前徐霞客旅游有多硬核!撒贝宁穿越时空 走进“中国第一旅游博主”的传奇人生 | CCTV「典籍里的中国」第8期 20210905
- Naturfreunde – Wikipedia
- NaturFreunde Deutschlands | Verband für Umweltschutz, sanften Tourismus, Sport und Kultur |
延伸阅读:
- 《身体生成式智能》|阅读导航
- 《Body-Force · Season One · Navigation Map》|How the Human Body Generates a Logic of Civilization
- 《河流还在,船一直在变|在德勒斯登交通博物馆读航运的一千年》|The River Remains, the Ships Keep Changing | Reading a Thousand Years of Shipping at the Dresden Transport Museum
- 《当十九世纪仍在航行:乘蒸汽船穿过德勒斯登》|When the Nineteenth Century Still Sails: Aboard a Historic Paddle Steamer in Dresden
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